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Hi Charles, same here really, my only concern is that when the battery fails we may not be able to get any replacement. ATM it is working ok as regards powering the bike but recently the charging has been getting a bit 'iffy' . In the past, as soon as I plugged in the charger it gave one beep and the red charging light came on but lately it has starting to beep quite a few times before the light comes on. It could be the battery or the battery management system - we don't know. But when the battery does eventually fail as all batteries do it may mean a whole new kit!

Hello Chris, firstly thank you so much for your kind comment about my video and I am delighted that it encourage you to purchase a Hegner - you have made a wise choice - one that you will never regret. My advice is not to buy a hold down arm, they are a confounded nuisance and most people end up removing them. You will very quickly get used to holding the work down and you will not even feel or think about the effort. Always make sure you put the blade in the right way with the teeth pointing downwards otherwise it will jump about crazily and drive you mad, you would be amazed how many people put blades in upside down. Have you looked at my fretworking website? Lot's of info on there inc a Hegner page etc Search for scrimpers fretworking site . The link is also in my header above. Regards John

Hello John, Thanks for your reply. I'll take your advice and practice holding down the work with my fingers and save the cost of the arm if it's likely to to gather dust in a corner. I've not seen your fretwork videos but I'll certainly take a look. I've seen a few of your whirlygig videos and like the way you adapt all sorts of everyday things to make parts for them. There are a bewildering amount of different blades available for scroll saws but do you find that you have a small number of sizes and types that you use most of the time? Chris

Chris, There are a lot of fretsaw blades available but you only really need to concentrate on two types being the standard plain blade and the reverse tooth variety, I go into detail on the blade page of my website but in essence you can manage quite well with about three grades a number 2 or 3. a number 5 and perhaps a 9 for thicker work. Sizes generally go down to 00 and up to a 12, if you are new to the hobby don't go lower than a number 2 or you will keep breaking them. My advice would be steer clear of spiral blades - at least until you are experienced, they are likely to put you off the hobby for good. Some folk do absolutely stunning work with spirals but most of use hate them. As for reverse tooth blades their only real benefit is they minimise cut out at the bottom of the work, other than that they make little difference. Again I discuss this on my website. Any questions please feel free to ask - although I might not know the answer!

Hello again John, Thanks for taking the time to give me a detailed answer. My Hegner came with a small set of blades which I think might have even come with the Hegner when it was new and I suspect its not had a great deal of use. I now have an idea which to try and which to order in future. Scroll saws seem to me to be a great self contained tool. They take up little space and you don't need to own or use lots of other tools to do most fretsaw projects. I'll look up your website for more ideas and information. Keep doing the videos, they're much appreciated. Chris

Thanks again for your kind comment Chris. In the past there was so little interest in the hobby, powered fretsaws have made a big difference with a lot more taking the hobby up. one of the reasons I did the videos and website was to encourage people to give the hobby a try - several people have told me they started the hobby after watching my videos which makes the videos all worthwhile. I make zero from my videos or website and I don't want too, kind comments like yours are all the reward I need.

And thank you too for watching and indeed taking the time to comment, much appreciated.

So glad you liked my design. Not sure what you are asking about blade degree? Do you mean the propeller blades? If so the answer is I don't do them scientifically, I just do what I think looks about right and they all seem to work.

Kieran, you need a blade length of 59 1/2 inches (1511mm) in length they are widely available. I would advise buying a good quality blade rather than the cheap ones - a good quality blade will improve your saw tremendously. I can recommend a company called Tuffsaws (UK only) I am using their blades on my saws and find them superb and way better than cheaper makes I have used in the past.

It is not easy to find, if you look at my video description above I have added the actual link to the kit.

Yes, it's a standard USB power bank.

Many thanks for taking the trouble to comment. The Dustette was never a very powerful device but they were certainly of very good quality.

@@scrimperuk ruclips.net/video/ChawvxPb2Yg/видео.htmlsi=H2jkxRxTWitJlmzZ My hoarde of dustettes maybe you will have info I don’t have

Many thanks for your kind comment. IMHO the 862/867's were the best non upright cleaners Hoover ever produced - excellent suction - very reliable - good build quality and simple to service - what's not to like!

@@scrimperuk I have two dogs and when the floor has lots of dog hair on it I find the exhaust blows the hair all over! Apart from that yes a great design

Thank you for your comment Robert. I did mine 5 years ago and it is still doing the job perfectly.

It is not easy trying to carry out out a repair and at the same time operate cameras and explain what I am doing entirely off the cuff without any script. My main objective is only to show other people with the same issue how to do the modification. I don't make the videos for max views and have not received or claimed any payment from ebay for any of my video content. In essence I do the best I can with the filming but I am not a professional film-maker.

@@scrimperuk Sorry if my comment appeared harsh - more to help you make better vids. Good luck.

Sorry Norman I do not have any whirligig plans at the moment but when I get time I may add a page covering whirligigs on my fretworking website when I could offer free plans. The link to the site is in my youtube header.

So glad you found the video helpful and thanks for your kind comment.

Thank you so much for your very interesting comment. I was always fond of the ships and remember when several were mooring in the outer harbour.

Thank you for your comment Richard. Being an electrical bod by trade and always inquisitive I took mine apart too and found the worn contacts. They are a super saw, I only use mine for crosscutting and use it most days, in all the years I have owned mine this is the only thing that has gone wrong.

Thanks for your interesting comment Richard. These saws are just superb are they not!

Hello Robert, thanks for watching my video and for your comment. I don;t think there is much you can do to rectify this issue , I imagine it is a 'quirk' or bug in the software, when Easifit were in business they would have tried to correct it with a firmware update but now they have 'gone out of business there is little hope. In our case it does not really cause any problems. you could try contacting LVBU who made the kit to see if they can offer any help.

Many thanks for watching my video Walliser.

Many thank for your comment RA and helpful advice.

Never heard of any child or person being injured by a whirligig propeller, most whirligigs are on a pole and out of reach of children in any case. I made my very first propeller out of wood but soon realised that metal ones were better being much lighter. If you are concerned about danger to children make certain that you site the whirligig high enough so they are out of reach of little hands. Even a wooden propeller whizzing round in the wind could hurt if a hand is placed in the way of it.

Many thanks for subscribing to my channel.

Hi Andy. Sorry I don't remember the bearing numbers but both are readily available amd the size is marked on the actual bearings. I know the top (smaller) bearing is an LJ8 or 608 bearing. I got both bearings from my bearing stock the bigger (bottom) one was the same as fitted to a Hoover washing machine and the LJ8 was fitted to Hoover cleaner motor. As I mention they are both readily available.

@@scrimperuk thank you so much for the reply I appreciate it

Have you looked on ebay? Photo-copied manuals do appear on there.

@@scrimperuk Thank You Sir, got it.

Many thanks for your comment Matt. I love making use of stuff most throw away.

It does depend on what you are trying to do i.e. how much effort is needed to move the object. for simple things any wire will do the job but if you need something stronger bicycle spokes are strong, they do bend fairly easily but they don't have much 'give' and can jam the movement, it's trial and error really. Use what you have available if it doesn't work try something else.

Thanks for your kind comment John.

Thanks for the comment. I use whatever is available or what I have 'scrounged' or what others have thrown away for example it might be part of an old wire rack from a shop, a griddle from an old cooker or a bit of old Meccano rod. [I have done a video on using rods] Generally old Meccano rods are ideal as they can be bent into a cam shape easily yet are also robust and don't bend on their own so to speak. Also you can use old Meccano wheels or pulleys to connect to the propeller or as bushes on the rods. But whatever you have is best. Meccano rods are 0.160" (4.06mm) in diameter.

Basically anything that is available, have a look at my video entitled source of rods for whirligigs.

Thanks for the comment.

I doubt they are still available, there were two types one was a proper quality head with cutters, the same sort of head used on a spindle moulder, then there was the cheap dado unit (poor quality) that they often bundled with the saw as in my case. I only use my saw as a cross cut machine so removed the riving knife as it is not required cross-cutting. I don't recommend using the saw as a rip saw, it is very dangerous. They can throw out the wood with the speed of a bullet.

Thank you Stephen. I bet you don't feel as old as me! I left the appliance repair business some years ago and it has changed beyond belief. You must have seen some massive changes in the computer business over the years.

@@scrimperuk Too true. All the programming languages I gained qualifications in and used on a daily basis no longer exist but it's when you come across equipment you worked on in museums, that's when you feel old (ha ha) All the best.

8 inch hard sector disks. I wish I’d kept some just to show people. I remember when I was in the early days of repairing IBM PCs, the chap from IBM was demonstrating the full height 360k floppy drive. He was confident the cost of the drives, which was about £300 each, would probably not drop much and people would never need more than 360k storage. How wrong he was when the cost of a 1.44mb drive dropped to £10. I remember the first hard drives of 5gb that were like bricks and had ferro coated platters. I still have some Connor 20 go 3 1/2 “ hard drives. And an Everex cassette tape drive unit.

Thank you so much for your very kind comments Simon, I really don't deserve the praise. I started work in the TV/Radio repair business but always wanted to switch to computers as I was always fascinated with them from the early days but never got the opportunity to work on them as a job.

Thanks for the comment Roger, before the floppy we had to use tape cassettes which were dreadful.

Thank you Matthew.

Thanks for the comment Colin and for sharing your experiences. To be honest both the rear wheel or hub motors are much better options than the front wheel version. One must always be a little concerned at have the weight of a motor in a set of forks that were never intended to have a heavy motorised wheel in them. The Dawes super galaxy seems to cope but one is always about the issue. If we ever need another kit I would go for either the hub or rear wheel.

Hi Mark, thank you for your comment. The machine will be be genuine but the badge you describe is one supplied by a pattern parts supplier. Your machine has either been reconditioned or the original badge was missing and a pattern one fitted. Pattern parts makers had to use just an H to represent Hoover because the Hoover Logo was copyrighted and Hoover took action on pattern makers using their logo. The 867a first came out in 1965.

It is an 18" version.

Thanks for the comment, George used to be fine with the camera since he started a course at university he has become camera shy. probably worried his mates would 'rib' him.

@@scrimperuk yes I’m sure his mates would kid him about being on Grandpa’s video

Thanks for the comment Mark. As you can hear on the main part of the video the mic on the camcorder I use (only a cheap camera) is pretty good in fact as good as this stand alone mic. I think you are correct it might not be very good in the workshop - too direction able.

Hi Aussie, The price you paid sounds very good value to me. it is such a long time since I bought mine and I don't remember the price paid. They stopped making the model 46 years ago!

Thank you very much Roger. The bike conversion is still working well, I did film a video on how it has been since I fitted it with news of a newer version but before I got around to editing the video the people selling the kit seemed to have ceased trading and disappeared. So it did not seem worth completing the video.

Thank you Charlie.

Many thanks Barry. I know that you are pretty good at doing things too.

Thank you so much Alan.

Thanks Colin we haven't cycled much in the last few weeks due to a lot of our routes are flooded leaving just the main roads that are not nice to cycle on.

It's the same here, I prefer tracks but the mud makes it impossible. Never mind, Spring is on its way.@@scrimperuk

Thank you Funky.

You are very kind Gary. Thank you.